inseam pockets

Using the pocket pattern piece, trace and cut out two pairs of pockets in the main or contrasting fabric.

Finish all the sides of each pocket with pinking shears, zig zag stitch, or a serger. Also, finish both sides of the front and back pieces of the dress or tunic.

Determine pocket placement, measure down from armscye and up from hem, marking with tailors chalk. For pants or skirts, position top of pocket 4 1/2 inches (11 cm) down from the waist. Start with the front garment piece, keeping the straight edge of the pocket in line with the side, pin one of the pocket pieces in place with right sides facing. Repeat on the other side of the front and then both sides of the back piece.

Sew the pocket using a 1/2 inch (12 mm) seam allowance. Sew the pocket on the second side and then repeat for the remaining pockets on the back pattern piece.

Working with the front piece, right side facing fold the pocket open and press along the seam. Repeat for the second side as well and on the back piece.

With right sides facing, pin together front and back pieces, along the side and around the pocket curves.

Starting from the armpit, sew down the side, using a 1/2 inch (12 mm) seam allowance, until 3/8 inch (9 mm) past the top of the pocket. It is important that your side seam meet the pocket seam.

Keeping the needle in the down position, lift the presser foot and turn 90 degrees and sew around the pocket.

Sew 1/2 inch (12 mm) into the dress or tunic body. Then with the needle in the down position, again lift the presser foot and turn 90 degrees to sew down the remainder of the side.

Again, it is important that the side seam meet or overlap the line of stitches for the pockets to avoid any holes. Repeat on the second side.

Turn your garment right side out, tuck pockets inside and press. Enjoy the sweet utility of your new pockets!